After boarding the Sepik Spirit and getting settled in our cabins, we got into a smaller flat-bottom boat and motored up the Sepik River to view life along the river and to visit a village. The village had clearly been notified of our coming, and was prepared with demonstrations of everyday life and customs. This seemed hokey at first, but I soon got accustomed to the idea: Villages are compensated for our visits and for their performances of everyday tasks and tribal rituals, but are genuinely pleased by our interest and by the opportunity to show off their skills, as well as by the contribution that we make to their economy by buying their crafts and by the payment from the travel company.
Fishing for piranha stocked in the river is an important source of protein.
Village buildings seen from the river. Steps up from the boat landing can be seen just to the right of center at water's edge.
Three young men from the village enacted a ritual killing of a man from another tribe, necessary to qualify for full manhood. (Above and below)
Ceremonial march/dance led by village elders.
Village leader
Villagers decorated for ceremony
Young woman showing facial decoration and ritual scarring (below)
Boy looking pleased with his photograph taken by tour leader Jan Wheatley on a previous visit.
The villagers quickly set up displays of their handicrafts, hoping we would purchase some of them. (We did.)
Mothers and older girls tended younger children while trying to sell the billum bags they've made from palm fibers.
More elaborate masks were also on offer.
Children played without adult supervision in the river.
View of the Sepik Spirit from our boat returning from the village visit.
Picture taken just a few minutes before 6 PM. Night falls rapidly near the equator, and day breaks just about 12 hours later.
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