One evening in Samarkand we went to the theater before dinner, and an unusual kind of theater it was: unchanging scenery, dramatically changing lighting, and elaborately costumed actors - all dramatizing crucial episodes in the centuries-long history of Central Asia. Here are four out of many.
On the outskirts of Samarkand we visited a workshop that makes paper in old-fashioned ways, using wood shavings pulverized by a water mill and pressed by heavy stones. The resulting product is attractive for contemporary artwork.
Ulugh Beg, a grandson of Tamerlane and a Timurid sultan in his own right, was one of the great astronomers and mathematicians of ancient times. From the MIR brochure:
"The astronomer-king was fascinated by the stars and the cosmos, and built one of the most advanced observatories of the ancient world. The observations, which he undertook with the naked eye only, predated the telescope by over 150 years. They were aided by the building itself, which housed a large, vertical half-circle, only a quarter of which remains today. By using careful methods, rigorous observation and meticulous recording, Ulug Bek calculated the length of the year to within a minute of the modern accepted value. He also created the most comprehensive (to that date) catalog of the heavens, earning his place in history."
A visit to the observatory was fascinating.
From the Mir brochure: "The row of tombs and mausoleums collectively called Shah-i-Zinda, or “place of a living king,” stretches between the present and the past. At its front is living Samarkand, and at its back the dusty slopes at the edge of ancient Afrosiab. Even on hot summer days, the mausoleums remain shady and cool, and seem to lure travelers to approach the oldest tomb at the far end. Behind the complex and set into the hill lies an active cemetery with grave sites dating back as far as the ninth century and as recently as present day." Here are just a few images of this evocative place.
The interiors between the madrassas of the Registan turn out to be good places for craftsmen and shopkeepers to peddle arts and crafts reminiscent of the great surroundings.
The Registan complex of Samarkand is a great center for sight-seeing and ceremonies, including wedding photographs. Here are some examples.
